5 Years Later : The Goreme Open Air Museum

I first visited the Goreme Open Air Museum of Cappadocia in 2010 and my write-up was neither kind nor full of praise. I accused the guidebook of incorrect information and my exact words to describe the historical UNESCO World Heritage site were…

“Goreme Open Air Museum is 13 cave churches that all look the same. Throw in the Cappadocia tour guide that screams at you, the overpriced entrance fee, the vile coffee, the mile-long toilet queue, seven coaches of selfish tourists and it will certainly be a day that you will remember for the rest of your life.”

Goreme UNESCO site in Cappadocia Turkey

While writing that article, I did question whether I’d simply picked a bad day to visit because it seemed one thing after the other went wrong. For that reason, it was constantly on my mind that perhaps I should give it another chance and in June of this year, I did.

Arriving at the Goreme Open Air Museum

I couldn’t believe it because as soon as we walked through the gates, bad luck once again descended on me. It started raining heavily but I didn’t have an umbrella. Then, the memory card on my camera ran out of space because I had already spent four days exploring other areas of Cappadocia but I didn’t want to delete any of those photos. At this point, I was positively sure that I must be Satan reincarnated.

Remember, Goreme Open Air museum contains some of the earliest churches in history. This area was one of the first to embrace Christianity and the Cappadocia fathers can take a huge amount of credit for spreading the word throughout the rest of the world. However it seemed that each time, I attempted to visit this holy place, bad things started happening to me. Pardon me for feeling persecuted!

Goreme National Park

That is when my tour guide came to the rescue. He lent me his umbrella and ran back to the souvenir shop to buy me a new SD card. Some would say he was an enthusiastic guide easy to please, while others would say the look on my face and profanity coming out of my mouth suggested I was about to have a hysterical fit in public.

Ancient Church of Goreme Open Air museum in Cappadocia Turkey

Anyway, the lighthearted attitude of the guide made me think that perhaps I was being a little dramatic so braving the showers, we made our way from church to church.

On this occasion, I didn’t let the large amount of inconsiderate and aimlessly wandering tourists ruin my mood. Instead I waited patiently for my turn to view the interior frescoes of each church some of which date from the 3rd and 4th century BC.

Goreme open air museum Turkey

I was extremely disappointed that you are still not allowed to take videos or photos of the interior frescoes even though most modern cameras can avoid use of a flash that over time, damages the frescoes. The entrance fee has now risen from 15 lira to 25 lira and I paid another 10 lira to see another church within the grounds. Hey, this is inflation and sites like this need maintaining so it is worth paying.

There is still only one ladies toilet, despite the hundreds of people who visit it every day and the coffee served by the onsite restaurant, is still overpriced but the taste has massively improved. Which leads me to wonder if perhaps I was harsh in my first write-up of the site?

Goreme Open Air museum in Cappadocia, Turkey

Goreme Open Air Museum is and always will be a massive tourist trap subjected to the pitfalls of huge queues, overpricing, stupid tourists who don’t look where they are going and tour guides with an overinflated ego (apart from my guide, he was cool.) However, the historical importance of the cave churches and the restoration work of the interior frescoes beat all of those hands down.

I’m ashamed that on my first visit, I didn’t appreciate this fact. I am kicking myself for not using a tour guide then because maybe I would have fully comprehended that this area was a fully functioning community of monks and Christian believers who were persecuted for their beliefs.

Open Air Museum in Goreme Cappadocia Turkey

So readers, please ignore everything I wrote previously about the Goreme Open Air Museum. It rightly so, should be the first place that you visit in Cappadocia. Use a tour guide if you are interested in historical knowledge and facts. Also visit early in the morning or last thing at night to beat the queues. Just please, I repeat please, do not play Ottoman dress-up in the souvenir shop, no matter how much they beg you to do it. That really is just tacky tourism.

Goreme : The Backpacking Hub of Cappadocia

On my first visit to Goreme in Cappadocia, Turkey in November 2009, I was all over it like a hot rash. The summer had officially finished yet it was still thriving with backpackers arriving from Istanbul on the overnight bus. There seemed to be travelers from all over the world heading there with eager anticipation to see for themselves the lunar like landscape, cave hotels, ancient churches and an amazing sunrise view of twenty or more hot air balloons in the sky.

Goreme

I was constantly in awe at the strange rock formations that I first spotted while driving into the region. Staying in a cave hotel was also a quirky novelty and since the town was relatively small and I walked most of it in just an afternoon, it had a canny knack of feeling comfortable.

Goreme Cappadocia

I visited again in 2012 and in 2015 and even though, the vibes of my first visit had worn off, it still felt welcoming and an ideal place for a solo female traveller to feel safe. Unsure whether the amount of genuine cave hotels had dwindled, or the resort was bigger, it seemed more uniformed and not so rustic but I was in the right place at the right time, with a fuzzy feeling that Goreme was my 2nd home.

Is Goreme a Good Place for Hotel Accommodation?

Cave hotel of Goreme

Since it is the tourism capital of Cappadocia, any potential visitor has a wide choice of hotels to choose from, including authentic cave hotels or manmade buildings, with luxury or budget facilities.  At the height of summer though, definitely pre-book your accommodation because Goreme gets extremely busy.

If you are reliant on public transport, have a cheap budget and don’t seem to mind the touristic vibe, then yes, it is a good place to stay overnight but I prefer the traditional town of Ortahisar and specifically the Castle Inn. It is one of the best hotels I’ve stayed in.

Restaurants and Nightlife in Goreme

Goreme Cappadocia Turkey

Truthfully, I think most restaurants in Goreme are unhygienic or just unprofessional. One restaurant, situated on a veranda overlooking the road to the open air museum was dirty and I constantly interrupted the staff from their gossiping just to get served.

Another restaurant pushed me out of the door as soon as I walked in because apparently the chef and owner had a massive argument and both had walked out. The quality of food in others was just horrendous.

It seems that the restaurants that know what they are doing and not winging it, are in the Urgup region. Also don’t expect nightclubs that are open until 5am. Goreme is all about sit down dining or cheap food to go.

If you hamper after an active night-life with nightclubs open till 5am in the morning, head to Bodrum, Istanbul, Antalya or other seaside places instead.  People travelling with children will also find a lack of activities to keep kids entertained.

Things to Do in Goreme

Horses of Cappadocia

While the centre of Goreme does not have any attractions itself, the surrounding areas are pretty awesome and things to do include…

-Fly high in a hot air balloon trip
-Visit the cave churches at the Goreme open air museum
-For hiking fans, nearby Pigeon and Love Valleys are ideal
-3 to 4 hour horse riding treks are popular in the evenings
-A short bus ride will take you to surrounding resorts such as Uchisar and Urgup
-Head to Panoramic Viewpoint for an amazing view over the town of Goreme
-Visit the town of Avanos to take part in pottery demonstrations

Green / Red / Blue Tours

Pottery Tree of Goreme

Three tours are sold by local agents. Green and red tours are ideal for first-time visitors taking you to underground cities and valleys like Ihlara.

Aside from that, take lots of photos because describing the landscape of Goreme and Cappadocia to your friends back home is extremely hard to do. They need to see the photographs to believe you.

Goreme and Cappadocia always exceed my expectations on every return visit and I’ve never met anyone who didn’t enjoy it. Be sure to put it on your bucket list.

How to Save Money with the Istanbul Tourist Pass

Tourism in Turkey is catching up fast with standards in western worlds. Gone are the days of rusty old buses and sub-standard hotels. The industry now provides tourists with every amenity they want and one concept to hit the market is the Istanbul Tourist Pass. It is the brainchild of the team behind the popular Istanbul.com brand.Delivered to your hotel reception on the day you arrive, the aim of the tourist pass is to help you with three aspects of traveling in the city.

-Save time by beating queues to major attractions
-Save money on entrance tickets and also public transport.
-Connect the customer with a local guide who they can speak to via WhatsApp, for help, advice, hints and tips

About the Istanbul Tourist Pass

Hodja Whirling Dervishes

There are three passes available

-Essential
-Special
-Flexible

To date, the pass has received raving reviews from customers but let’s delve into the finer details to find out exactly what you are getting for your money.

One to one guiding advice via Whatsapp

As long as you have Internet connection, you can contact your personal online local guide anytime between 10.00am to 18.30 to ask for help, directions or recommendations of places to eat or visit.

This is a handy service especially if it is your first time in the city or you encounter some problems. Big kudos for this because hiring a private guide can cost anything from 20 euros an hour or more! This is definitely my favourite part of the service.

Public Transportation Discount Card

At the same time the Istanbul Tourist Pass is delivered to your hotel, you will also receive a public transport card (The Istanbul Kart: Normal price is 10 Turkish liras). Once you top it up, you have access to discounted prices on the tram and buses, just the same as locals pay.

The potential for saving money is unlimited but if you use public transport every day, you could be saving 5 to 10 euros depending on your group size.

Optional Extras

Unlimited Internet Access

For a small extra cost, a 3G mobile Internet device is included with the pass. This allows you to hook up to 10 devices to the Internet, 24 hours a day, no matter where you are. This is definitely value for money if you are traveling as a large group or family.

Ottoman photo Shoot

What Attractions are Included in the Essential Pass?

Topkapi Palace, the first home of the Ottoman Sultans
Hagia Sophia, the former church and mosque that is now an official museums
Hop-on Hop-off Sightseeing Bus Tour
Hop-on Hop-off Boat Tour
About The Special Istanbul Pass

This ticket is for people who want experiences rather than to visit landmarks. Included in the price is the chance to indulge in a traditional Turkish bath, see the memorizing whirling dervishes of the famous Hodjapasha centre or enjoy dinner and entertainment while on a cruise of the Bosphorus.

The Flexible Istanbul Pass

This pass delivers bumper savings of up to 50% and is aimed at visitors who are spending 3 days or more in the city and they want see and do as much as possible.

Experiences include…

Topkapi Palace
Hagia Sophia
Hop-on Hop-off Sightseeing Bus Tour
Hop-on Hop-off Boat Tour
Bosphorus Dinner Cruise
Turkish Bath
Whirling Dervishes Show
Sea Life Aquarium
Istrapped Room Escape Game
Nostalgic Ottoman Photoshoot
To find out more about the Istanbul Pass, visit their website or follow them on Facebook to stay updated with travel news from Istanbul.

Grand Bazaar of Istanbul : Photos & Shopping Guide

The Grand Bazaar of Istanbul is a lot more than your average shopping mall. Shopkeepers are not shy about letting you know  they want your money and will do their best to get it. Sixty streets covered with thousand of shops can be overwhelming if you are not a hard core shopper.

On my first visit to the Grand Bazaar, I spent most of my time staring at the rush with my mouth open! The crowds were too much and I didn’t buy anything.  My second visit was with two friends; female and foreign, we were all ripe targets.

We did survive though so I have put together my photo guide on everything you need to know including where to find maps, souvenirs to buy, opening hours, shopping etiquette, getting there & how to bargain like a pro so you come  away with some awesome and cheap souvenirs!

Grand Bazaar Istanbul

What To Buy

Well, it would be quicker to list what is not for sale because there are millions of weird, wonderful and normal things to buy.  I did not spot any farm animals or day trip tickets to outer space. Streets are grouped according to the products they sell, which is a tradition dating back to the Ottoman times. Locals shop in the market as well, so you can find some household goods. Unfortunately, there is also quite a lot of junk.

Grand Bazaar Istanbul Turkey

In the Grand Bazaar of Istanbul, You Can Buy….

A gas mask if you know something the rest of us don’t!

Gas mask

A cute little guitar with the Turkish flag on it…

Shopping in the grand bazaar

A pair of funky boots…

grand bazaar

A statue of some cool dude from the Ottoman empire…

Souvenirs in the Grand Bazaar of Istanbul

Food and drink from this bloke if he stops daydreaming and washes his hands first!

seller

A belly dancing outfit to spice up life in the bedroom…

whats for sale in the grand bazaar

As much silver as you want….

Silver

If silver is not your thing, buy bucket loads of gold!

Gold

How to Avoid Hassle in the Grand Bazaar

Think about faking temporary insanity. Mutter feverishly to yourself and develop awkward twitches. Salesmen are scared of crazy people.

Your second option is to roll around in the trash and sleep on the streets the night before, so everyone thinks you are a tramp with no money.

Your third option is to kit yourself out with a burqa and a pair of soundproof earplugs.

Well, by now, you should realize what I am trying to say. There is no normal way to avoid the hassle. You have to deal with it. The Grand Bazaar of Istanbul is the lion’s den and you are the prey.

Grand Bazaar shops

Women : If it is that time of the month when PMT is rearing its ugly head, I suggest staying away until your hormones return to normal. After all, there are only so many times you can hear “do you want to buy a carpet?” before deciding to batter the salesman around the head with his lovely Turkish carpets.

Seriously, you have to be a good mood. Just join in with the banter and you can end up having quite a laugh. Many salesman asked me to take their photograph.  One asked for a kiss so I told him my husband was around the corner. As for the “do you want to buy a carpet?”, the conversation went something like this.

Salesmen – Do you want to buy a carpet?

Me – No, I bought six yesterday

Salesman – What about your friend?

Me – She bought nine yesterday

Salesman – So you are rich ladies then?

Me – No we are now poor, but that carpet seller is now  rich

The salesman laughed and backed off.

Note : I did not get grabbed on the arm by any salesman, but if this does happen to you, simply tell them firmly but nicely to take their hands off you. It is no use getting angry with any of them

Bargaining Like a Pro in the Grand Bazaar

As mentioned before, the Grand Bazaar of Istanbul has a lot of junk for sale but if you find something you like, get your bargaining head on. If you do not bargain, you will be ripped off as the shop owner is expecting you to ask for a lower price, therefore has already put the price up.

As a rule, whatever price he gives you, go back with 50% knocked off. He will laugh, tell you he is poor and has six children to feed, and then come back with another price. Repeat the process until you both agree on a price.

What to buy in Istanbul Grand Bazaar

Maps for the Grand Bazaar

If you want to know your location at all times, here is a map. Unfortunately walking around the Grand Bazaar of Istanbul with a map, is the equivalent of sticking a flashing neon sign on your head, saying, “Look at me everyone”

Instead prepare to get lost; it is part of the fun. You can discover so much more. When you are fed up and decide that, you want out, look for the exits signs, which are everywhere.

What to buiy in the Grand Bazaar

Opening Hours

The Grand bazaar of Istanbul is closed on Sundays but open every other day from 9.00am to 7.00pm. Yearly October the 29th is a bank holiday in Turkey, so it also shuts then. You should also check the opening hours during religious holidays that are Seker Bayram and Kurban Bayram (these occur at different times every year)

How to Get to the Grand Bazaar

It is located in the Beyazit district of Istanbul (near Sultan Ahmet) so ask your hotel for details of buses passing in that direction. If you are staying in the Sultan Ahmet, Beyoglu, Fatih, Eminonu or Taksim districts, it is within walking distance. Use Google maps to input the location of your hotel, the Grand Bazaar and it will give you the perfect route!

Grand Bazaar Tour Ideas

If you want  the help of a guide or are a repeat visitor to Istanbul, you might enjoy the unique Grand Bazaar experiences offered by Istanbul Tour Studio. In the past, I’ve worked closely with Sinan Sokmen, who is the owner, manager, and a local tour guide and together with other independent experts, he has created two tours to enhance a visit to this historical Ottoman landmark.

The first is the Bazaaring in Istanbul tour tailored for shopaholics or anyone daunted by the thought of exploring the Grand Bazaar on their own. The curator is an antique expert who has spent most of his life meandering around the bazaars of Istanbul, and he has set the course for a local tour guide to help you explore the traditional side of the Grand Bazaar and other shopping havens such as the Spice market. (Read more about him and the tour here)

The second experience is the Jewellery workshop held in a traditional and ancient han of the Grand Bazaar. A silver/goldsmith demonstrates the art of making traditional Turkish jewellery before letting you take the reins to make your very own souvenirs instead of buying them.

8 Unusual and Cool Things to do in Istanbul

Istanbul, an iconic city and the most popular tourist destination in Turkey, has immense dignity and pride. The cultural infusion of various communities, modern influences, and its historical timeline is impossible to ignore.Most travel publications have detailed articles about things to do in Istanbul.

They normally involve shopping in the historical Grand Bazaar, visiting Ottoman palaces, admiring the architecture of Hagia Sophia and delving into the depths of Islam, by visiting the Blue mosque. Unfortunately though, not everyone likes touring historical sites and countless visitors, who have been to Istanbul, more than once, are often clueless about what to do next. So a passionate Istanbulite, decided to fill a gap in the market.

Things to do in Istanbul : Suggestions by Locals

Sinan Sökmen is the founder and managing director of an alternative concept to touring Istanbul. He said…

Our tours are categorized according to interests and hobbies such as history, photography, food, art, or shopping. So we collaborate with connoisseurs of various fields and topics, to help visitors create a personal experience.

Since I am constantly seeking offbeat experiences in Turkey, he instantly had my attention and told me more about these locals and their ideas of things to do in Istanbul.

1 : One Day Street Art Tour

Some call it graffiti, but all over Istanbul, shop shutters, car parks, old factories or white washed walls are canvases for impressive art work and murals. The street art tour visits famous urban neighbourhoods such as Sishane and Karakoy, to see pieces that would gain much admiration in an art gallery.

Erbil SivasliogluTour Curator is Erbil Sivaslioglu, an active promoter for the yearly Istanbul Street Art Festival. He has extensive knowledge of urban neighbourhoods and also the street-artists and their sources of inspiration. He urges everyone to look at Istanbul from a different perspective.

2 : Ottoman Jewellery Workshop in the Grand Bazaar

Beautiful jewellery is for sale in the Grand Bazaar, but visitors can make it instead! Under the instruction of a Usta (master), attendees are shown the ancient craft of Ottoman jewellery making and then they design and construct their own masterpiece. Classes last roughly 3 hours, with a maximum attendance of 4 people.

BanuOverseer of this unusual experience is Banu Kent. Born in Germany, she now lives in Istanbul, after extensively traveling around the world. Her inspiration is the vibes of Istanbul that encourage creativity thinking. She learned the craft from an usta that has been making Ottoman jewellery for the last 25 years.

3 : Street Photography Walk

Improve your camera skills, fully understand its functions, and capture unique photos of Istanbul, by attending the photography tour around main avenues and back streets. After an introductory briefing, the tour visits Taksim and Istiklal Avenue with its majestic examples of architecture.

DidemDidem Orhuner, a freelance professional photographer is the mastermind of this tour. She started photography as a hobby, but progressed to be published in various magazines and showcased in exhibitions. Didem says, we also stop at tea and coffee shops, as well as antique stalls because daily life, both past and present, are  ideal photo subjects!

4 : Istanbul Bicycle Tour

Some people might consider this a ludicrous and dangerous suggestion but on the Asian side of Istanbul, official biking routes include photography stops and visits to scenic landscapes, piers, parks such as Fenerbahce, and local restaurants. Bahadir says anyone can come because all equipment is provided including bikes, helmets, audio guide and safety jackets.

Bike tours istanbulBahadir Efeoglu can be credited with putting this tour together. Using a bike, he has travelled through numerous countries and around Turkey. He also cofounded Busiklet, the Bogaziçi University Bicycle Society.

5 : Mushroom Hunt and Picnic

You may think mushrooms don’t exist in a bustling metropolis, but 15 kilometres north of Istanbul is Belgrade forest, an adventurous playground for nature enthusiasts. This ideal destination is perfect for a mushroom scavenger hunt to spot specific varieties, taste them and enjoy a quiet picnic.

JilberCurator of this tour is Jilber Barutcuyan, who has an unusual diploma on mushroom studies form the Ministry of Health in Switzerland. He describes himself as a diver, climber, cave explorer, wine specialist and mushroom expert!

6 : Flavours of the Old City

Visit a simit bakery to watch how they are made, savour a traditional Turkish breakfast, chat with the owner of the most renowned Turkish coffee shop in the city and watch how he prepares it. Next on the agenda is a Turkish wine tasting session in a cellar, and the chance to indulge in traditional baklava.

Food in IstanbulCurator of the tour is Cemre Narin, who is food editor of Vogue in Turkey. She is also a cookbook author whose inspiration and creativity stems from the belief that through food and drink, visitors learn about the history, people, and culture that makes Istanbul, an ideal city-break destination.

7 : Rowing in Istanbul

The Golden Horn is an important region of Istanbul and it beckons expert and beginner rowers, to see its landmarks from water. Experienced and licensed rowing teachers provide all equipment including the kayak and the group sets off in the early morning, on a designated 8 kilometre course.

Sinan IstanbulCurator of the tour is Sinan, the founder of Istanbul Tour Studio. He speaks fluent English and Spanish, and describes himself as well travelled and a history buff. He says novices should not be shy, because they receive a tutorial and everyone has the option to row solo or tandem.

8: Sailing in Istanbul

Last on our list of things to do in Istanbul, is sailing. If a kayak is too small, upsize to a larger sailing yacht. For a morning or afternoon, qualified sailors will show you the ropes, and then drop anchor for a short time in various locations to view the city’s horizon from a different angle. A GoPro HD video camera is on board to capture every moment, and included in the price is your own copy, to take back home.

Sailing istanbulThe mastermind behind this tour is Özgür Inam, an instructor for the Royal Yachting Association and Sailor of the Turkish National Sailing Team. Fully qualified as an instructor, he encourages people who have never sailed to try this experience at least once.

Further Reading about things to do in Istanbul and the curators can be found on their website. To make reservations and ask questions contact them on info@istanbultourstudio.com.

10 Things to Do on Istiklal Avenue in Istanbul

Istiklal Avenue in Istanbul is a busy street. In fact, it is the busiest street in Turkey. Also known as Istiklal Caddesi in Turkish or Independence Avenue in English, anyone visiting the city should spend at least a day exploring the 1.4-kilometer Street and all the side alleys leading off it.

The street is busy from morning until night, and not only is it immaculately clean and uniformed but buildings have a historical tale to tell that mostly relates to the Ottoman era. Often frequented by dignitaries, intellectuals and people of affluence, the cosmopolitan street was the place to hang out.

After the Turkish war of independence in 1923, it was renamed Independence Avenue but by the 1970s, neglect had turned the street into an undesirable area. In the 1990s, Istanbul local council decided to do something about it, to the tunes of millions of dollars and that work bought it to the influential status that it has today. So when you visit the street, where should you go and what is there to do?

Attractions & Things to do on Istiklal Avenue in Istanbul

Churches, Mosques, and Synagogues

There are a few churches in this area, but the biggest and best is the St. Anthony of Padua Church. The Venetian Neo-Gothic architecture of the inside is impressive. The church is a fully functioning place of worship for Christians that live in a predominately-Muslim country.

If religious landmarks interest you, then you may also like the Spiritual Sunday Excursion by Istanbul Tour Studio. It visits major churches, mosques, and synagogues of Istiklal Avenue and the neighborhoods surrounding it. Understanding the multi-cultural history of Istanbul is hard at times, but this is a perfect way to see and understand how various religions have shaped its history over time.

Shopping on Istiklal Avenue

It is so easy to empty your bank account with everything that is for sale including clothes, music, technology, home décor, sports, and perfumes. Many shops are chain store brands so you can’t bargain over prices. Instead wander down side streets to find local shopkeepers who sit down with you, drink an apple tea, and discuss the price you want to pay, in the traditional Turkish way of haggling.

Street Photography Walk

Perfect for both novice and experienced photographers who want a deeper look into daily life in Istanbul, it starts on Istiklal Avenue, heads towards the Galata Tower district and past major landmarks as well as giving a local insight into the urban life of this great city. Find out more about the street photography tour here

Whirling Dervish Museum

The Mevlevi Museum is a former lodge of the whirling dervishes of Istanbul and displays of their clothes, instruments, and reading books are open to the public. They also hold whirling dervish shows in the side hall that showcase the ancient Sema ritual. This museum is a great insight into the Sufism sect of Islam and Rumi, also known as one of the greatest poets in the world.

Independence Statue

The Independence Monument stands in Taksim Square. A reflection of the Turkish war of independence, many Turks hold it in great esteem. First erected in 1928, estimations say that at weekends, up to 3 million people walk past this statue.

Art Galleries

On back streets surrounding Istiklal Avenue, art galleries such as the Pera Museum and smaller exhibitions such as the Misir Apartmani in the Galata district, showcase up and coming artists, both international and Turkish.

Istanbul Tour Studio run a walking tour and you can read more about it here but most importantly is that the Pera Museum is also home to one of Turkey’s most expensive paintings that is the tortoise trainer by Osman Bey Hamdi.

Street Art Tour

If art interests you but you don’t want to walk around galleries, then the street art tour might be more suitable. Istanbul Tour Studio offers this unique insight into one of Istanbul’s most urban districts by highlighting the work of famous street artists.

Led by a local artist who has also collaborated on a street art app for Istanbul, the tour starting on Istiklal Avenue, then ventures further into other surrounding neighbourhoods. Read more about the itinerary here.

Nightlife: Bars, Clubs, and Food

Eating and drinking your way down Istiklal Avenue will take months because of the huge range of establishments open for business. Well-known western chains of fast food such as Burger King or KFC make a roaring trade with youngsters and partygoers, or alternatively, traditional Turkish lokantas serving cheap Turkish food are great if you are traveling on a budget. Likewise, high reputation restaurants serving pricey food often require a reservation in advance.

Night-time is when the action happens as the bars liven up and play every type of music from traditional Turkish rock to western style group bands. I’ve never been, but one of the most popular and highly rated nightlife scenes is the 360 restaurant /bar and a nightclub. Set in a 19th-century building, it apparently also has a 360-degree view of the Istanbul city horizon.

Instead, I found myself in some dingy bar, popular with students, and I highly suspected the singer was out of his head on drugs. So naturally, as you would anywhere in the world, just have your wits about you because as one of the major players on the nightlife scene in Istanbul, there are some dodgy characters about.

Flower Passage

Flower Passage (Cicek Pasaj) is a favorite venue at night-time for food, but I did not rate the disgusting culinary dish that I sampled. Instead, the architecture on the first level of buildings interested me the most. Displaying profile pictures from old managers of Meyhanes in Flower Passage, it was a striking and nostalgic black and white display of prolific Istanbul locals.

French Street

French street is on a small side street leading off Istiklal Avenue but is worth going that extra distance. Now a local landmark and popular with tourists, the décor is typical of a street in France, but don’t expect French food or handsome French waiters! Live music played during the summer months provides a romantic atmosphere, while it is open all year for food or just drinks.

Note: Also, get ready for demonstrations. In Istanbul, if people have something to say, Istiklal Avenue is normally where they do it. The most famous event was the Annual Gay Pride march of Istiklal Avenue that more than ten thousand people attended in 2012.

Now in previous years, most protests were peaceful but unfortunately, that has changed recently, and water cannons are commonly used to disperse protesters. So if you are on Istiklal Avenue and see a demonstration, walk in the opposite direction.

How to Get From Ataturk Airport to Istanbul City Centre

Istanbul is the top visited destination in Turkey. So imagine the millions of foreign tourists that it receives every year! There are two airports in Istanbul but Ataturk airport is the busiest and most tourists will arrive via that route. Transport from the airport to hotels or the city centre is easy, because there are five options.Taxi

Outside the arrivals hall, are queues of yellow taxis that all run on meters. When coming out of the airport, use the bank machines to get Turkish lira so you are sure of exactly how much you are paying. Unfortunately, the Internet is rife with traveller’s tales of how they were ripped off by Istanbul taxis.

It seems the most common stories are unnecessary detours and lack of change. It is easily done with tourists who are not familiar with Istanbul and also the currency. Know beforehand that estimate charges from Istanbul Ataturk airport to the Sultan Ahmet and Taksim districts are roughly 45 to 55 lira.

Havatas

HavatasThis is a private company operating bus services to and from the airport but they do not go to the Sultan Ahmet district, only Taksim square. It used to be Havas but their service has been discontinued. The route takes approximately 40 minutes and costs 11 Turkish lira. If there are four people traveling, that is nearly the same cost as a taxi. See here for the pick-up times.

Metro

Follow the signs from the arrivals hall to walk approximately 10 minutes to the Metro. To use it, purchase a jeton which costs 4 Turkish liras. The Metro has numerous stops, including the Otogar (bus station).

If you are traveling to the main touristic areas of Taksim or Sultan Ahmet (old city), swap to the tram or funicular line at Zeytinburnu or Aksaray. See here for the transport network map for the metro.

Personally, I don’t like this option. Struggling with luggage on the Metro is not fun, especially at rush hour and the journey can take an hour or more depending on the time of day.

Metro Istanbul Ataturk to Taksim or SultanAhmet

Rent a Car

I would never drive a car in Istanbul. Ataturk airport is the busiest in Turkey and traffic congestion on the roads leading in and out, can be heavy, slow moving and manic!

If you decide to go against my advice, look in the arrival hall for the offices of all major car hire companies including Hertz. Before signing for the car, check it for signs of damage and ensure these are listed on the contract.

Private Airport Transfer

Istanbul Airport TransfersAfter messing around on planes and in airports, this is a good option to choose. Efendi Travel who has offices in Istanbul sells reasonable priced airport transfers with complimentary water drinks and you don’t have to send payment in advance. Just pay when you arrive.

They also have a 24 hour call centre in case your flight is delayed, your luggage goes missing or you need help as a newly arrived tourist in Istanbul. The fixed price for 1 to 4 people from Istanbul Ataturk Airport to either Sultan Ahmet or Taksim district is just 20 Euros. From Sabiha Gokcen Airport to the city centre it is 45 Euros.

There are no hidden costs that taxi journeys can often occur such as the meter ticking over in traffic jams. Compare their rates and read about their airport transfers at www.ataturkairporttransfer.net